The Extraordinary Being of Emmanuel Reynaid
The spirit of Jacques Reynaud, the godfather of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is always present. When the legendary founder of Château Rayas died suddenly in 1997, his wife asked their nephew, Emmanuel Reynaud, to take the reins at both Château Rayas and Château de Fonsalette. Already making wines at his father’s Château des Tours, Emmanuel agreed.
He is somewhat reclusive and can be found working his vineyards at most any time of day, every day. He does not revel in the fame and notoriety that come with making such sought-after and acclaimed wines. Still, he continues to carry the mantle of his famous forebears, producing hauntingly aromatic wines at his three estates: Château Rayas, Château des Tours, and Château de Fonsalette.
There are certain wines, and certain winemakers that are held above all others. Chateau Petrus, Domaine Romanée Conti, Raveneau, Vega Sicilia. I would add to them Emmanuelle Reynaud. I have drunk wine from each of his estates and they are some of the most memorable wines I have ever tasted. The 1989 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape was memorable, on so many fronts. A recent bottle of Fonsalette CDR Blanc was utterly indulgent, and the 2009 Des Tours Vacqueyras (my last offering) was almost indecent. Every year I wait with bated breath to learn what my annual allocation will be. Every year I am both disappointed and exalted. This year, with the demise of so many restaurants, my allocation was increased. I will receive 12 bottles of the 2016 Des Tours Vaucluse, 3 bottles Des Tours Grenache Blanc, 2017, 10 bottles of the 2016 Côtes du Rhône and 4 bottles of the Vacqueyras 2012.
Located in Sarrians, just outside Vacqueyras, the Reynaud family purchased Château des Tours in 1935. The old house is flanked on both sides by tall towers (hence “des Tours”). This is Emmanuel’s family estate, which he took over from his father, Bernard, in 1989. Emmanuel is at heart a farmer, and here he grows food for his family–olives, grains, and grapes. Like all Reynaud vineyards, these are tended with the same organic methods; manually plowed, all hand-harvested much later than other producers, and centered around a reverence for old-vine Grenache. With 40 hectares of vineyards surrounding the house, Emmanuel produces Vacqueyras, Côtes du Rhône, and Vin De Pays, all from estate fruit. His wines are made with minimal to no sulfur during vinification. Whole cluster fermentation commences naturally without the inoculation of yeasts, in underground concrete tanks and aged partly in oak casks. The parcels are vinified separately before assemblage takes place in enamel-lined tanks and bottled. The resulting wine is unfined and unfiltered.
There is a similitude with all the wines produced by Emmanuel, a unique weighty, aromatic, complex and savory signature of all the wines ranks them among the most sought-after bottles of the appellation. “What makes the desert beautiful… is that somewhere it hides a well... “
These wines will sell out by the end of the day. If you are interested email me or call me with your wish list. First come, first served.
Domaine des Tours VDP Vaucluse Rouge 2016. 12 bottles. $52 net
Les Tours Grenache Blanc 2017. 3 bottles. $65 net
Château des Tours Côtes-du-Rhône Rouge 2016. 10 bottles. $65 net
Château des Tours Vacqueyras 2012. 4 bottles. $95 net
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