Love at First Sight

A Bordeaux Wish List

April 2021

In the early days I admit to having a love affair with Bordeaux. Not with the region per se, but with the wines. I remember as a student taking time off from my studies in Perpignan and roaming the vineyards around the 1st growth chateaux. I had never actually drunk any of those mystical wines, and as a student there was no chance of every buying one of them (this, even in the 70’s). And so, I found these little vineyards along neighboring mud tracks that had the same soils, the same micro-climates, the same varietals - the difference? They didn’t have the same owners, the same winemakers, the same investors. But they were pretty damn good, and at a price that an impoverished student could afford.

When I returned to England, I used any excess salary to buy more of these wines - Chateau La Dominique, Chateau La Louviere and others that sadly time has made me forget. When I eventually could afford the 1stgrowths, I collected them like Jay Leno collects cars. Many of them I still have, and most of them I enjoy, still.

But as I grew older, and after I came to America, that desire to continue purchasing Bordeaux wines decelerated. Not simply because here, under a 3-tier distribution system, the wines were stupidly expensive, but I think, primarily, because my tastes had changed. I desired softer, more muted, more complex flavors. Flavors that Burgundian Pinot Noirs offered me.

And yet I still love the excitement of tasting a great Bordeaux. I enjoy it even more when I don’t have to call my financial advisor for permission to buy it. And with that said, I spent a few hours the other day tasting a range of wines from a relatively new (to me, at least) importer of Bordeaux wines and every wine I tasted I knew I was going to buy. Some of them I plan to drink immediately, some I will drink to celebrate the end of Covid, and some I may just lay down for a few years (unlikely!).

This was the line-up in the order that we tasted.

Chateau Cru Godard, Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. 2018. $22

80% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 5% Malbec
Organic

For those in the know, Bordeaux’s Côtes can produce some of the most treasured jewels in the region. Yes, it is an area that produces far too much non-specific supermarket wine, but then you find winemakers like Carine and Frank Richard. They bought this little domain in 1998 and turned it organic by 2010. The remarkable tidbit about the vineyards? Their vines are more than 50 years old. That puts many 1st growths to shame. The wines come from very low yielding plants - that means high concentration juice. The soils are limestone, and the vineyards are south facing. It’s a perfect combination and this husband and wife team make deliciously pure, fresh Bordeaux.

Great nose, lovely rich color. An immediacy of dark fruit on the front palette, lingering on the mid with hints of blueberry and blackcurrant. Super smooth and elegant.

Chateau Maison Blanche, Les Piliers de Maison Blanche, Saint Emilion. 2016. $28

60% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot
Biodynamic & Organic

Even though this estate is located on the ‘Left Bank’ the blend is predominantly Cabernet Franc (60%) and then Merlot (40%). The vines range in age 25-65 years old. Elevage is organic and farming is 100% biodynamic. Nicolas Despagne now owns the Chateaux, and the experience of his family and himself is unquestioned. The man knows a thing about making wine in Bordeaux. They have been in the industry since the 18C.

I adored this wine. That touch of age adds a 3rd dimension to the wine. The Cab Franc blends seamlessly into the Merlot and the whole is just gorgeous. Beautiful filigree tannins, a soft, delicate underbelly of blue fruit followed by Kirsch, blackberry and cassis. This is serious Bordeaux at a fraction of the price of its peers.

Marquis de Mons, Margaux. 2017. $33

80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon

This is the 2nd label to Château La Tour de Mons. It is so full of elegance - supple tannins, balance and a great aromatic expression. The Merlot is ‘cut’ by the small addition of Cabernet that gives the wine backbone and a lovely edgy attack of black fruit. I know that this is a wine that typically should be drunk within the first 5-6 years, and today it was drinking beautifully, but I will go out on a limb and suggest adding a few bottles to your cellar for drinking in maybe 10 years. I think it will be divine.

Château du Tertre, Les Hauts du Tertre Margaux. 2016. $45

53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc

This is the 2nd label to Chateau du Tertre. It’s slightly weird to think that this estate is over 1,000 years old. The winery stretches over 52 hectares and has remained unchanged since 1855. That was the year that Chateau du Tertre was established in the Bordeaux Classification as a Grand Cru Classe wine. In 1997 it was bought by a wealthy Dutch businessman and the buildings were restored to their previous glory. This 2ndlabel uses younger fruit, but the vinification and ageing benefit from the exact same care as the Grand Cru wines.

On the palate the wine is so smooth, so delicious. Resonating flavors of blackcurrant jam, red plums and baking spices. This is classic Margaux - all the crunchy fruit coupled with earthy notes and fragrant soil. Beautiful.

Château Lynch-Bages, Echo de Lynch-Bages. Pauillac. 2012. $79

57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc

OK. You aren’t necessarily going to buy cases of this wine, but then again, the primary label sells for $150+. This is all about the fruit. The color is a deep garnet-purple. The bouquet explodes with blackcurrant pastilles, black cherries, dark Belgium chocolate, and I could go on. I smelt charcoal, cinnamon, hints of mushroom, just a kaleidoscope of fragrances. Most of which transfer to the palate. Ripe, rich dark fruit flavors, lots of melting, jammy berries and delightful grainy tannins. Everything beautifully integrated so that when you drink it you are transported to a state of meditation and contemplation. Bliss.

This week's offering:

6 bottles total: 2 x Cru Godard and 1 each of the remaining. $229. $215 SAVE $14
12 bottles total: 3 each, Cru Goddard, Maison Blanche, Marquis de Mons, Chateau du Tertre. $384. $338 SAVE $46
Or mix and match to your own preference. 6 bottles, 5% discount, 12 bottles, 12% discount. But hurry, this offer is only available the week of March 29.